Run Salmon Run

VICTORIA – The autumn months in Vancouver Island are some of the most spectacular. The dense forests offer a myriad of rich warm colours as the fall foliage turns to red and orange and all the hues in between. It also marks the season for spawning salmon which undertake their epic annual journey. Each year, over a million Pacific salmon forge their way up the many streams of the Pacific northwest to spawn and die. Being in Victoria late October, it was something I was keen to see first hand. Luckily, Goldstream Provincial Park is a world class salmon spawning stream and located about a 40 minute drive north of Victoria on Highway 1. The main route north for the island; the road can get very busy, so look out for the signs in order to be able to turn off in time.

For the salmon, it’s all about timing. They congregate in the Saanich Inlet waiting for the right moment to begin their arduous swim upstream. The first time I went, it turned out I was a little early, and the salmon were waiting for a good dose of rain to swell the rivers and make the task that bit easier. Luckily, for the salmon at least, five days of torrential rain seemed to do the trick. I arrived early, which was just as well, as even at 10 am, the car park was packed. Quite a few people had brought chairs or were setting up to do painting and drawing which added to the idyllic nature of the place. The stream is barely 20 meters from the car parking so it requires very little effort to see the salmon.

I hadn’t appreciated how large salmon can get. Every so often two or three would surge forward, thrashing about and progress several meters upstream. In doing so, much of their body is out of the water and you get to see both their size and sheer exertion in pushing themselves through the oncoming waters. Of the five kinds of North American Pacific salmon, it is the Chum salmon that is most abundant in this river, though you may also see some Coho and Chinook salmon, as well as the Steelhead and the Cutthroat trout. There are plenty of information points that will help in identifying what they all are, but I found most locals were happy to share their knowledge and insights.

A contemplative experience, watching the Salmon Run should be done in silence so as to not disturb the fish. Having said that, with the splashing of the salmon and the cries of the gulls eagerly eyeing up their dining opportunities it is not exactly quiet.

After half an hour, I walked down to the visitors centre. Covering just under four square kilometers, this ancient forest has , some of which are Douglas-fir and western red cedar up to 600 years old. Mount Finlayson make a majestic and imposing presence over the park and for the fit and adventurous, there are plenty of tracks for longer walks and hikes.

Though one worthy point to note: you should be alert and watch out for black bears which often come down to make the most of the salmon buffet. The visitor centre is a leisurely 15 metre walk from the car park and provides basic amenities for refreshment and toilet breaks. In addition, it provides plenty of useful local information for those wishing to explore further and often has a stunning exhibition of local artists and artisans which is available for purchase.

www.goldstreampark.com/salmon


text James Tulley

Giants of the Deep

VICTORIA – If there is one thing British Columbia has lots of, it’s nature. It is little wonder that as a testament to the province’s natural beauty that car licence plates are proudly emblazoned with the catchy moniker “Beautiful British Columbia.” Just shy of a million square kilometers, British Columbia is truly vast, but Vancouver Island offers a great and accessible foray into the region and the south of the island with Victoria as its gateway is a perfect way to start.

The capital of British Columbia, Victoria has a decidedly English feel. Elegant colonial buildings, leafy roads, and manicured parks all help to put the ‘British’ into British Columbia. Despite being a cosmopolitan and at times bohemian urban centre, there’s plenty of fauna and flora brimming at the edges. A good place to start is the spectacular Inner Harbour in front of the imposing and regal Empress Hotel.

Locals certainly value the rich biodiversity that inhabits their island waters but are rather blasé about seeing whales. After all, when you have around 14,000 bobbing around the North Pacific waters, they are something of a fixture. But coming from the rolling south downs of Sussex, I was pretty thrilled at the chance to see a few marine giants.

The harbour has numerous organised tours on offer, but I chose Prince of Whales Whale Watching. Catchy name aside, the ticket office and pick up point is located right next to the tourist information office which makes it ideal if you are in downtown Victoria. Just make sure to be there 30 minutes before the scheduled departure time.

They offer a variety of tours throughout the year and for the truly adventurous the small open air 12 passenger Zodiac boats zip in and out at great speed. But if you are prone to sea sickness and don’t fancy bouncing on the crest of the waves or donning a full waterproof safety suit, then larger vessels are also available. I opted for the Ocean Magic II, which proved to be a comfortable and exhilarating ride.

The departure out of the harbour is a truly stunning start to the adventure. After about 15 minutes of navigating the gentle waters you are out into the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Prince of Whales promises that if you don’t see a whale you can go on another tour free of charge. The number of whales in the waters is certainly on their side, but all the tours operate a whale spotting network so all the vessels are in on the act.

Despite having grown up with lots of BBC nature programs, nothing quite matches the sheer thrill of seeing a humpback whale breaching the surface of the sea. The tours are strictly monitored to make sure they don’t get too close, for the wellbeing of the whales, but at about 100 meters, it is close enough to appreciate the majesty of these wild giants of the deep.

Humpbacks are the largest whale to frequent Vancouver Island waters. Over the course of the warmer months, they spend most of their time feeding on tiny crustaceans which consist mostly of krill but also plankton and small fish. After somepretty extensive dining in the rich coastal waters they then spend the winter months heading off to Hawaii with a few veering to Mexico where they breed and rest.

All in all, I managed to see eight humpback whales, though I didn’t get to see any killer whales, gray or minke whales; but I certainly didn’t feel disappointed. After a good hour of whale watching the Ocean Magic II hugged in close to the coast passing by Race Rocks and the resident seals and sea lions were happily basking in the sun. At CAD 130 a person from March to November, it is value for money for an informative and incredibly well organised chance to experience Vancouver Island’s marine wildlife.

www.princeofwhales.com


text James Tulley

Beach Paradise

VICTORIA – Being an island and a big one at that, Vancouver Island has over twenty five thousand kilometers of coastline to explore. From rugged trails, jaw dropping cliffs to sandy beaches, it offers every possible vista to enjoy the Pacific Ocean and various inlets and straits that form the myriad of smaller islands that surround it. For visitors to Victoria, there are two that are worth the drive. For something nearer to downtown, Willows Beach is about 15 minutes by car from the harbour. While there are taxis in Victoria, they are few and far between and having your own vehicle is really the best way to explore the area.

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Willows Beach is immensely popular in the summer months. All very genteel, it has a rather English feel about it as people take leisurely strolls, set up windbreakers or make sandcastles. Driving to it, you will pass through the affluent Oak Bay area, known for its popular tree-lined namesake avenue, filled with smart boutiques and art galleries, fancy delis, and lively cafes. The prestigious Uplands neighbourhood is the ‘Beverly Hills’ of Vancouver Island with its leafy streetscape dotted with multi million dollar mansions and high end cars to match.

The day I was there mid summer, it was particularly busy. Most seemed to be families and locals enjoying the sunshine, and there are plenty of parking spaces on the beachfront and on the side streets. It is not an especially wide beach but is long enough for a good 30 – 40 minutes stroll, and the sand is fine and dotted with drift wood which makes for handy seating to take in the views. The length of the beach and the fact it’s on a bay affords a stunning panorama that includes Oak Bay Marina, Discovery Island, and Mount Baker with its snow capped peak which looms in the far distance.

A rather hot day, I took some solitude in the large grassy park aptly named Willows Park. This was greatly enhanced with an exceptional ice cream from the quaint Kiwanis Willows Beach Tea Room. Overlooking the beach, this is an institution in Victoria and offers light snacks and refreshments, and offers a full cooked breakfast for the bargain of 10 dollars. Frankly, it wouldn’t look out of place in any British seaside town.

www.oakbaytourism.com/stakeholder/willows-beach/

www.oakbaytourism.com/stakeholder/willows-tea-room/

If you are feeling a little more adventurous, then a 45 minute drive out of downtown Victoria will bring you to the beach at Aylard Farm in East Sooke Regional Park. There are a couple of possible routes but I chose to take Craigflower Road which passes through the leafy suburbia of Esquimalt and View Royal. On the way, look out for the Craigflower Manor & Schoolhouse. Erected in the 1850s and originally part of the Craigflower Farm settlement, it’s a charming example of early agricultural architecture. The drive through Sooke Road in Colwood isn’t especially attractive so best to continue on to Metchosin Road.

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If you did want to break up the journey, which would be about 20 minutes from Victoria, then a slight detour nearby Fort Rodd Hill and the Fisgard Lighthouse is worth a visit. I decided to do both, and am glad I did. Fort Rodd Hill is a 19th-century coastal artillery fort which juts out on a small spit of land overlooking the Salish Sea. If you are a naval or military buff then you will be in your element. A National Historic Site of Canada since 1958, there are plenty of canons, gun placements and bunkers to roam over and through, with guided and audio tours if you really want to know more. However, it was the rugged and dramatic coastline that took my breath away. The day I was there, about a dozen deer had decided it was the perfect place to graze which added to the whole experience.

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After a good brisk walk, I headed down to the Fisgard Lighthouse which perches on the rocks in front of the fort. With the Olympic Mountains in Washington State in the far background, this was not only one of the most beautiful places I had been to but offered spectacular photo opportunities. There are plenty of rocks to clamber over, but do so with care. A couple of seals had also decided it was perfect for sunbathing but quickly slipped away when they had been rumbled. The gleaming white and red topped lighthouse and its red bricked building is the oldest on Canada’s west coast and still in operation. For all the natural beauty here, it’s a busy shipping lane and the lighthouse still serves its purpose to remind those of the perils of the sea.

The dangers, isolation and desolation of maritime and lighthouse life are charmingly rendered over two floors of the red brick house.

www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/bc/fortroddhill

www.fisgardlighthouse.com/

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After an hour and half of wind in my hair, I continued my drive onto Aylard Farm beach. After leaving Colwood, the drive weaves its way through the rural communities and agricultural lands of Metchosin. The roads amble their way through lush landscapes and there are plenty of places to stop off to buy local farm produce or even to rent bees! Needing a jolt of caffeine, I quickly stopped off at the My Chosen Cafe which is at the heart of Metchosin. It became immediately obvious this is a dining destination. The car park was packed on a weekday afternoon, and it was easy to see why. With its rustic setting, extensive menu, fabulous cakes and a convivial atmosphere, this had a loyal following. While I only grabbed a latte, I put this down on my list as ‘must come back’.

http://www.mychosencafe.com/

Heading out of Metchosin, you take the scenic Rocky Point Road and East Sooke Road. With its twists and turns you skirt the coastline, dip through verdant valleys and pass by dense woodlands. While you can’t visit, you will pass the Canadian Forces Ammunition Depot at Rocky Point which is one of four ammunition depots strategically located across Canada and probably the most picturesque. A few minutes further I had a quick pit stop at Spirit Bay.

Billing itself as “an authentic seaside village on the south coast of Vancouver Island”, Spirit Bay is a new environmentally sustainable development which hugs the coastline of this idyllic bay with its many rocky bays, headlands and little beaches. A forward thinking project, it is a shining example of the development of Beecher Bay (Sci’anew) First Nationland. With its bespoke wood-framed houses in a kaleidoscope of colours, it reminded me of a fishing village in Sweden or Iceland. There is still much to build but it will no doubt become a thriving community on the West Coast. Given its waterfront positioning, it proved an amusing diversion with plenty of seals lolloping around and seemingly oblivious to my presence on the dock. The pair of juvenile raccoons trying and failing to get into the waste bins raised a smile before they scurried off in defeat.

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Pushing on, and a further 10 minute drive, I finally reached the beach at Aylard Farm which is open from sunrise to sunset. There are ample parking facilities and it’s only a short 5 minute walk across the open fields to a dirt track which leads to the beach. It is quite simply an oasis of calm, with spectacular views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Olympic Mountains. Most people who were there had made the most of the large driftwood as cosy places to settle down and relax. One young boy was engrossed in the rock pools hunting for crabs and another was busying himself building a sandcastle.

For those wishing for more strenuous activities, the beach and coastline is popular for watersports and scuba diving. While that’s not my forte, I did decide to check out some of the numerous trails that are on offer. Experienced ramblers can take the entire coast trail, which according to the website, can take about 8 hours to complete one-way. Dramatic scenery, and some challenging terrain make this a popular trek but one for which you need to be prepared. I decided on somethng more genteel and took the less intimidating walk from Aylard Farm beach to Becher Bay.

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Only 300 meters one way, it was easy underfoot with the gravel trail and gentle slopes. Despite being the ‘easy option’, it still afforded great views of the ocean and the coastal habitat. The end of the trail provided a lovely picnic area from which I spent half an hour soaking up the views.

www.victoriatrails.com/trails/east-sooke-park-aylard-farm-beechey-head/


text James Tulley